Climbing Chimborazo difficulty
NEW ROUTE UPDATE: Chimborazo: improved chances to climb Ecuador´s highest mountain!
Some months ago, Andeanface took part in an expedition to find a safe route on Chimborazo. The expedition was led by Jose Luis Peralvo actual president of ASEGUIM the Ecuadorian Association for Mountain Guides. The expedition found a route via the Stübel Glacier that now provides the safest alternative to climb Chimborazo, Ecuador´s highest mountain. In this way we avoid “el Castillo”, which during the last years has become very dangerous due to its exposure to rock fall as a result of the global warming. Andeanface considers its responsibility to offer safety first as well for our clients as for our guides.
Chimborazo is Ecuador’s highest peak. For many years European climbers thought it was the highest mountain in world. In fact, it is the highest mountain if measured from the centre of the Earth, and it's the mountain closest to the sun due to the Earth’s wider shape. The first ascent was made by the famous expeditionary Edward Whymper back in 1892. The mountain has four main summits:
• Veintimilla 6.267 m / 20, 561 ft (named by Edward Whymper after the president of Ecuador)
• Whymper 6.310 m / 20, 702 ft
• Politecnica 5.820 m / 19, 094 ft
• Nicolas Martinez 5.570 m / 18, 274 ft (named after one of the pioneers of Ecuadorian mountaineering)
The Stübel Glacier route not only provides more safety but also more adventure because we will be camping instead of using mountain refuges, it is a real expedition style. Also clients will be more active involved in getting equipment to the camp.
Important Note: Chimborazo is a hard climb and physically very demanding. We expect our clients to have some previous alpine experience.
Day 1 Travel to Chimborazo region - Hike Stübel Camp on Chimborazo.
Today we travel by jeep to the Plaza Roja (4, 852m / 15, 914 ft) located close to the Carrel hut. From there, it takes us about two hours to walk to the Stübel Camp (5, 050m/16, 564ft ) where we spend the afternoon preparing for the climb the next day. You will be involved carrying equipment to the camp. Porters will help carrying the tents and water.
Day 2 Summit Chimborazo.
We start the climb at about midnight following the Stübel glacier until it joins the Castle Saddle (5, 500m / 18, 044 ft.). This new variant to the normal Castle Ridge route, free from rock fall, makes it a much safer line to the top. From the Stübel Camp it normally takes eight hours to get to the Whymper summit, from where you will enjoy one of the most impressive views in Ecuador. The descent to the Stübel Camp takes three hours. After returning to the camp, we pack and descend to Plaza Roja, and drive to the valley
Day 3: Spare summit day
An extra day can be added to the excursion under request
Important Note: This schedule is subject to change due to unforeseen difficulties.